Friday, May 20, 2016

Ozu East



OZU EAST
Where East Meets West At Its Best

I wanted to dine here a few times before writing a review, especially since many of the menu items have changed in between visits. I also loved and miss the spinach noodles, and sadly I never got to sample the pork roll. The charred edamame was quite interesting and tasty, but as we worked our way half way to the bottom, the edamame were too soggy and drenched to finish. The ramen bowls were both tasty, and much lighter than we were accustomed, but sadly, both broths were too salty.




Chicken Ramen

Pork Ramen

In fact, I've noticed over several visits that many dishes suffer a little from too much salt (easy fix), and I favor salt and salty snacks. When the scallion pancakes arrive, your heart skips a beat. The generous pile of brisket, the pickles, the radishes, the jalapeno crema -- it's a beauty to behold. Indeed, the scallion pancakes are quite delicious with complex flavors, a work of art, but again, too much salt on the brisket -- I couldn't finish. 

Scallion Pancake

My favorites, so far, are the marrow bone noodles and the chicken wings. I love chicken wings, and these were lightly battered, moist, not greasy. The marrow bone noodles was the surprise star, being so unusual in taste and presentation. You scoop the marrow out and mix it with the noodles. My first bite rewarded me with the luscious taste of black garlic. It is quite light and refreshing with citrus and peppery notes. 




When I learned that Chef Joshua Han previously worked for Saint Martha's and Trois Mec, I knew I had to eat here. I gained a greater appreciation of the menu and his culinary vision. Han's dishes are innovative, fresh, playful and affordable. A few dishes like the scallion pancakes and edamame could use a little editing, and a lot less salt, but overall, I'm happy to support a restaurant that delights and expands my palate. Han elevates even the simplest things. The ajitama egg, for example, was so satisfying that I ordered one to go. And yes, I do wish they'd extend their lunch menu to include many of their dinner items -- the lunch menu is limiting (that said, friends I sent over this past week were quite happy with their bento boxes) -- but perhaps the happy hour menu marks a delectable compromise.

Ozu East offers some wonderful craft beers. The atmosphere is casual, yet there is no resting on their laurels.  I loved Saint Martha so I have full faith that Ozu East will evolve into a place where East Meets West At Its Best, especially with owner Paul Yi's commitment to quality and service.   Yi is quick with a smile and on my last visit, he made the round to every table to ask how everyone liked their food. You can catch a Dodgers game there, and they just rolled out a Happy Hour. There are plenty of reasons to frequent Ozu East. See you there.

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