Friday, June 24, 2016

Quest for the Best



SOMETHING TO FOOD ABOUT

Roots Musician Questlove is constantly traveling, and discovering new foods, new tastes and new cultures on the road.  After a pilgrimage to eat at Jiro's restaurant (Jiro Dreams of Sushi fame), his Instagram account blew up.   This food dialogue and frenzy inspired him to write this book.   Questlove interviewed ten of the best, most innovative chefs across the United States.   

Dave Beran, Chicago, talks about how they came up with the concept of Next, where every three months, they reinvent themselves.  I tried to get a reservation when Next first opened, so reading about how and why he wanted to do this after Alinea was the "next" best thing.   Ludo Lefebvre, Los Angeles, shares why he opted to do popups after working in very high end restaurants serving the one percent.  While I was able to eat at L'Orangerie and Bastide once each to celebrate a special occasion (Table 14!, Ludo exclaimed when I told him), I am so grateful that he is serving delicious food at a lower price point.  He proves that you can still show off your best with a menu priced at $35 instead of $195.  Ryan Roadhouse, Portland, discusses how they channeled novels or shows like Haruki Murakami and Twin Peaks to create inspired, delicious menus.  

The section on Donald Link was also one of my favorites because I fell in love with his Herbsaint at first bite, and once on a short trip, ate there several nights in a row!   I used to as send anyone bound to N'awlins to that restaurant, and they would always thank me profusely later.  

I recognized most of the chefs interviewed, and thank Questlove for introducing me to the ones I hadn't.  There's only one woman chef interviewed, Dominque Crenn in San Francisco, and she's one of only two women in the U.S. with two Michelin stars.  She says food is art, and her brush is her knife.  A friend's all-time favorite restaurant is Zahav, and keeps urging me to fly into Philly just to dine there. so I enjoyed learning more about Michael Solomonov and his five restaurants.  Daniel Humm talks about how Miles Davis was instrumental in how he and his partner Will Guidara re-invented Eleven Madison Park in New York.  Jesse Griffiths, Austin, loves to hunt, and shares how hunting makes you more mindful about what you eat.  Daniel Patterson, San Francisco, wants to give people real food at fast food prices. 

Something to Food About opens and closes with Nathan Myhrvold of Modernist Cuisine, in Seattle. Questlove visits Myhrvold and is treated to a 13 course eye-opening, palate popping meal.  The science, history, art and magic that you find in food is in this book.   The photography looks more like museum quality art than mouthwatering dishes in a recipe book.  It forces you to stop and reflect.  

I received this book from Blogging for Books in exchange for my honest review.




Wednesday, June 8, 2016

Simplicity is Best

FOOD WITH FRIENDS
The Art of Simple Gatherings



Food with Friends is a good resource for anyone who wants to entertain more but without the fuss, the nerves, the nagging need for perfection.  Let go of your inner Martha Stewart.  Embrace friendship, simplicity and spontaneity.   

The recipes and ideas here are indeed simple.  Easy.  The book is heavy on sweets and breakfasts, not my favorites.  Not for the health conscious or carb avoider.  Cyd has traveled all over so her recipes reflect a global perspective.  For example, she has a recipe for matcha egg cream which would send my in-laws over the edge.  Then again, my in-laws now love that sprig of watercress in my matzoh ball soup.

 Her section on potlucks and picnics is probably my favorite because 'tis the season.  The season of summer where we all face the question, what deliciousness to bring.

I received this book from Blogging for Books in exchange for my honest review.



  

Monday, June 6, 2016

Ma Maison, Ma Plaisir

Ma Maison, Ma Plaisir

Chef Laurent Quenioux is a culinary genius.  A true master chef.   I should know, I've plenty of experience feasting upon his cuisine.  I've been a big fan of Chef LQ since his days at Bistro K at South Pasadena, and so it's fun to discover that he and I both credit and revere Jean-Louis Palladin.  It's one of those moment when suddenly, life even makes more sense.

I discovered on his website, under his favorites, LQ credits Jean-Louis Palladin as a mentor and the greatest chef ever!   What a coincidence.  Jean-Louis Palladin was my introduction to fine dining, gastronomy, and I credit him for making me what we now call a "foodie."    

Palladin gave me a whole new respect and perspective about food.  The first time I tasted foie gras was at Jean-Louis Palladin's restaurant Jean-Louis at the Watergate Hotel, in Washington, D.C.   It is said that Jean-Louis taught Washingtonians how to eat.

Similarly, Chef LQ is teaching Los Angelenos how to eat.  With pleasure.  His and ours.  Expanding our palates.  Delighting us with flavor combinations and profiles we didn't know existed.  Osmanthus is not getting cheaper? Say what?  Oh, osmanthus panna cotta, sure, I'll take two!

Sologne caviar?  Mais oui!

When I first visited Paris, everyone asked me do you want some cheese?
Silly me, I often said no.  In my defense, I probably said that because I grew up on terrible American cheese.  

Chef Laurent taught me cheese makes you happy.   



Jean-Louis was known to drive 150 miles in an afternoon to acquire the perfect ham.  He pushed himself, our flavor profiles while embracing American ingredients.

Laurent Quenioux is also known for his gathering, foraging and hunting adventures far and wide to acquire the best ingredients and products.   LQ also has his own garden but where he finds time to garden, I'll never know as I garden too.

Jean-Louis welcomed you in without attitude, as documented by Eric Asimov in a New York Times article the year he died November 2001, "As he broadened the boundaries of what was considered French food, he also relaxed the typically formal service in the dining room. It all made a table at Jean-Louis one of the hottest seats in town."

Ma Maison with its intimate outdoor setting, under a pergola, is one of the hottest seats in town.   Underground supper club.

I know, you want proof.   


The menu


Wild Monterey Bay Squid Tempura with Chickpeas, Eggplant Hummus, Arugula


Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms, Hokkaido Scallop, black truffles
This dish made me feel guilty that I do not stuff my zucchini blossoms


Washington Troll King Salmon, Pacific Northwest Porcini, Cucumber, Sorrel Emulsion, Bottarga Breadcrumbs

Everyone at the table wanted bread to soak up the Sorrel Emulsion.
No one wanted to risk being ostracized and ejected for licking the plate.  


Wild Alaskan Halibut, Chorizo, Preserved Lemon, Chipotle, Crevette Grise, Roasted Tomato Slew


White Asparagus, Morel Mushrooms, Parmesan, Green Garlic Sabayon
Confession:  Asparagus is one of my least favorite vegetables, but I loved this dish.  Everyone did.
So don't be surprised if Chef Laurent surprises you!  I'd be more surprised if he didn't!


Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Smoked Eel, Smoked Steelhead Caviar
Oh, Jean-Louis Palladin, I know you'd love this dish!  


Dry-Aged Hangar Steak, Roasted Shallots, Passion Fruit, Roasted Carrots, Spinach Espuma,

Confession:  I didn't know the word Espuma was either, but my advice; Eat first, look it up later.  
Espuma = Foam.

More, please.


Duck breast, sweet peas and watercress coulis, potato and Comte ravioli, apricot



Make sure you taste the truffle honey!


Chocolate Marquise, Cherry Compote w/Star Anise, Saffron Orange Ice Cream, Cherry Gel

I couldn't get enough of the saffron orange ice cream.  Ice cream and gelato are my weaknesses.


Remember, you don't have to eat with your eyes only.  Treat yourself.  Or, find someone to treat you because life too short and you deserve it.  One of the guests that dined at our table was gifted this feast as her Mother's Day gift.   The wine pairings are exquisite and also leave you wanting more.

Merci beaucoup, Chef Laurent Quenioux!