Ma Maison, Ma Plaisir

Ma Maison, Ma Plaisir

Chef Laurent Quenioux is a culinary genius.  A true master chef.   I should know, I've plenty of experience feasting upon his cuisine.  I've been a big fan of Chef LQ since his days at Bistro K at South Pasadena, and so it's fun to discover that he and I both credit and revere Jean-Louis Palladin.  It's one of those moment when suddenly, life even makes more sense.

I discovered on his website, under his favorites, LQ credits Jean-Louis Palladin as a mentor and the greatest chef ever!   What a coincidence.  Jean-Louis Palladin was my introduction to fine dining, gastronomy, and I credit him for making me what we now call a "foodie."    

Palladin gave me a whole new respect and perspective about food.  The first time I tasted foie gras was at Jean-Louis Palladin's restaurant Jean-Louis at the Watergate Hotel, in Washington, D.C.   It is said that Jean-Louis taught Washingtonians how to eat.

Similarly, Chef LQ is teaching Los Angelenos how to eat.  With pleasure.  His and ours.  Expanding our palates.  Delighting us with flavor combinations and profiles we didn't know existed.  Osmanthus is not getting cheaper? Say what?  Oh, osmanthus panna cotta, sure, I'll take two!

Sologne caviar?  Mais oui!

When I first visited Paris, everyone asked me do you want some cheese?

Silly me, I often said no.  In my defense, I probably said that because I grew up on terrible American cheese.  

Chef Laurent taught me cheese makes you happy.   

Jean-Louis was known to drive 150 miles in an afternoon to acquire the perfect ham.  He pushed himself, our flavor profiles while embracing American ingredients.

Laurent Quenioux is also known for his gathering, foraging and hunting adventures far and wide to acquire the best ingredients and products.   LQ also has his own garden but where he finds time to garden, I'll never know as I garden too.

Jean-Louis welcomed you in without attitude, as documented by Eric Asimov in a New York Times article the year he died November 2001, "As he broadened the boundaries of what was considered French food, he also relaxed the typically formal service in the dining room. It all made a table at Jean-Louis one of the hottest seats in town."

Ma Maison with its intimate outdoor setting, under a pergola, is one of the hottest seats in town.   Underground supper club.

I know, you want proof.   

The menu

Wild Monterey Bay Squid Tempura with Chickpeas, Eggplant Hummus, Arugula

Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms, Hokkaido Scallop, black truffles

This dish made me feel guilty that I do not stuff my zucchini blossoms

Washington Troll King Salmon, Pacific Northwest Porcini, Cucumber, Sorrel Emulsion, Bottarga Breadcrumbs

Everyone at the table wanted bread to soak up the Sorrel Emulsion.

No one wanted to risk being ostracized and ejected for licking the plate.  

Wild Alaskan Halibut, Chorizo, Preserved Lemon, Chipotle, Crevette Grise, Roasted Tomato Slew

White Asparagus, Morel Mushrooms, Parmesan, Green Garlic Sabayon

Confession:  Asparagus is one of my least favorite vegetables, but I loved this dish.  Everyone did.

So don't be surprised if Chef Laurent surprises you!  I'd be more surprised if he didn't!

Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Smoked Eel, Smoked Steelhead Caviar

Oh, Jean-Louis Palladin, I know you'd love this dish!  

Dry-Aged Hangar Steak, Roasted Shallots, Passion Fruit, Roasted Carrots, Spinach Espuma,

Confession:  I didn't know the word Espuma was either, but my advice; Eat first, look it up later.  

Espuma = Foam.

More, please.

Duck breast, sweet peas and watercress coulis, potato and Comte ravioli, apricot

Make sure you taste the truffle honey!

Chocolate Marquise, Cherry Compote w/Star Anise, Saffron Orange Ice Cream, Cherry Gel

I couldn't get enough of the saffron orange ice cream.  Ice cream and gelato are my weaknesses.

Remember, you don't have to eat with your eyes only.  Treat yourself.  Or, find someone to treat you because life too short and you deserve it.  One of the guests that dined at our table was gifted this feast as her Mother's Day gift.   The wine pairings are exquisite and also leave you wanting more.

Merci beaucoup, Chef Laurent Quenioux!  

Laurent Quenioux: A Retrospective of a Master Artist/Chef

No question, Chef Laurent Queinoux is a master chef and master artist.  This is less of a review of one meal, and more of a retrospective.

Like so many others, I've been a fan of LQ since his Bistro K days.  His "foodings" are always innovative, artistic, inspiring and of course, scrumptious.  How many Chefs continue to delight their customers dish after dish?  Push, experiment, hunt, gather, procure?  In this brutal economy, so many of us are forced to scrimp and save, hunker down, cut corners someway somehow-- but Chef Laurent does not compromise his craft.  Jamais!  LQ is always cooking.  This commitment to excellence and craft only makes me love LQ more because that is exactly how I feel about my craft (writing).  I only wish I had more loyal paying fans!  :-)

Cassoulet

Go to great lengths to bring you new tastes?  Cheeses?

Eric dazzles us with cheese

Like many others, we followed LQ to Bistro LQ on Melrose in West Hollywood to Starry Kitchen to Vertical Bistro.

His pop-ups often sell out quickly.  You have to reserve fast, and sometimes that makes it challenging to invite others.  The back and forth required to pick a date, time and commit -- well, all the tables could be snapped up before a consensus is reached.  You're also torn.  You want to spread the word to support LQ near and far because he is an international treasure, but you don't want to make it impossible for to get reservations next time.  I have foodie friends who do not share new gems for precisely this reason, they don't want to sabotage their chances of getting a table.

The past two pop-ups, however, I did invite some newbies to join in the culinary experience.  Oh my, what an incredible joy it was to see their eyes light up, to remember what it was like to taste LQ's cuisine for the very first time.  Yes.  You always remember your first.

My first egg meurette

As folks enter the dining room, many came over to say hello or waved.  One guest in our party was so impressed, he asked me I knew everyone.  The host recognizes me from Vermont and walks over to say hello.   Friends from Pleasure Palate could fill the room.   I had to laugh as my eyes scanned the room.  I guess after all these years, you do begin to recognize people, make friends, exchange hugs and bisous, and share.  Delicious joy has a way of bonding you to each other, organically.  After several wonderful meals, you feel like family.  LQ's extended family.  I've always wanted to be French!   If you are what you eat, I'm getting there one dish at a time.

Some other fine LQ dishes.

Frog legs

You're drooling, aren't you?

Hope to see you at the next LQ Fooding.  Don't forget to say hello :-)